Tahoe Rim Trail - Tahoe City To Brockway Summit

My first solo thru hike backpacking trip

Banner Image Source: "Lake Tahoe from Mt. Watson" by Jonathan Cook-Fisher - Under Creative Commons License

Day 1

I was feeling pretty weak still, but I couldn't just sit around and wait any longer so I finally put on my pack and left Christians home. I walked down the hill from North Tahoe High School and came to CA-28. There I hitched a ride down the road with a driver in an RV. He dropped me off near the highway 89 junction where the Lake Tahoe dam is. I walked to New Moon Natural Foods to pick up a few last minute snacks for the hike, and I headed back to the TRT trailhead.

It was really hot that day for Lake Tahoe, in the mid 80s. Just walking on the flat pavement was a struggle for me. I'm not sure if it's because I was not used to carrying the pack, my pack was too heavy, it was too hot, or my health was too poor still. I suppose it was all these factors combined. That first day on the trail would actually prove to be one of the most difficult of my whole 100 mile trip.

As I was hiking on the paved section of the road just before the dirt trail begins, I heard some mountain bikers talking about a bear sighting in the area. I felt a little nervous about this. I'd seen some bears before, but I was always in a group. This was my first time going on a backpacking thru-hike, and I was doing it alone too!

I hiked for less than a mile uphill and I was already exhausted. I stopped for some water and a snack and thought about the possibility of seeing a bear, and the extraordinary series of events that had brought me to the place I was at. It was a pretty big mix of emotions, but I had a lot of miles ahead of me so I mustered my strength and pushed onward.

View from Twin Crags

View From Thunder Cliff

A little further uptrail the view opened up and I got my glimpse of Lake Tahoe from Twin Crags. A few hundred feet more and I saw another perspective of the lake. Less than two miles into my hile and I was already drinking in the amazing sights of the Tahoe Rim Trail.

Its hard to describe the feeling at this point. I knew a long and challenging journey in life was waiting for me still and somehow moments give me the strength to keep going.

But for this day in particular, I had little strength left so I found a spot among trees to setup my tent for the night. I laid there wondering about the bear people talked about down the trail. As I was falling asleep it started to rain so I scrambled to set up my rain fly. That first day on the trail I hiked less than 4 miles and I slept better than I had in a long time, without smoking weed either.

Near Painted Rock

Day 2

The next day I had water on my mind. This was the first time I ever had to refill on a thru-hike before. I needed to get water before I reached Watson Lake or I would have a lot of dry miles ahead. The spring near where the trail crosses Burton Creek is the only reliable water source on this section of the TRT. I felt a little worried about finding it. It took a little longer than I wanted, but eventually I heard the soft bubbling sound of running water and I knew I was getting close. I refilled my bottles, and splashed water on my face. In the hot summer weather it felt so refreshing!

With my bottles full I continued on the trail to Painted Rock, a small rock outcropping that affords a view in all directions.

From there I descended the trail back into the forest past some mountain bikers. They warned me about a bear they had just passed a few minutes ago. I wondered was this the same bear I heard about yesterday? Now I was starting to feel nervous. I'd seen a few bears before, but I was always in a group.

As I continued on the trail I heard a noise in the bushes, I turned around and sure enough, there were two small young cubs, the size of pitbulls romping through the forest. I was filled with a mix of amazement, fascination, and apprehension. I knew the mother must be close by. Next I saw her, she locked eyes with me and sent her babies climbing up a tree. I was frozen in place, watching the bear. In my excitement, I actually took a few steps closer so I could record a video with my phone. I soon realized the mistake I made.

The bear charged towards me with a few bounds at a terribly quick pace. She stomped her paws on the  ground, clacked her teeth and huffed loud chuffs of air. At that point it was painfully obvious that I was being told to leave. I backed away slowly without taking my eyes off the bear. I continued walking backwards in this way watching the mama bear who hadn't taken a step since she charged me. She continued watching me and I didn't turn my back on her until she broke eye contact first.

I was so excited for the amazing video I captured of the bear trying to intimidate me. Sadly, that video along with all the other photos and videos captured on my iPhone during these two years in Tahoe and Reno were lost. I don't even have a single picture with my cousin Gregg.

Filled with adrenaline I continued on my hike towards Watson Lake. the lake campground still had a lot of snow coverage and some campsites were covered. I found a suitable place for my tent, filtered water and ate my dinner. Watson Lake is a small, beautiful lake surrounded by trees. I was starting to feel the rhythm of backpacking. It was a little easier to forget about all my problems when everyday my main focus was so simple: how long until the next water source?

Day 3

I decided I would stay at Watson Lake for a second night so I left my tent and backpack at the campsite and backtracked for an easy hike to Mount Watson carrying my lunch and some water. I found a nice flat clearing to practice some exercises and then climbed to the top of Mount Watson for the most amazing view on the trip so far.

I sat on the rock quietly and meditated, and then thought about the healing practice I was taught by one of my classmate. Erroneously called "ho'oponopono", it is based on the Hawaiian tradition of the same name, but what was shared with me is certainly something different, although still powerful. This word based practice uses four of the most powerful words in the English language. These are:

I Love You

I'm Sorry

Please Forgive Me

Thank You

This practice can be used for strengthening and repairing relationships, and also helpful for letting go of people whenever that is needed too. For me, I definitely had some serious letting go to. I thought about the conflict with my classmate, losing my car in Death Valley, and starting on this backpacking trip. I had been thinking about backpacking that summer even before I lost my car, and as I sit here writing this story I wonder if the loss of my car made this trip possible. Would I ever have gone on this backpacking trip if it wasn't for the falling out with my friend?

I put all my focus into this meditation and I stayed on the rock perched on Mount Watson for as long as I could, about an hour. I felt something shifted within me, and a little piece of anger and resentment fell away. Of course, I was still holding onto so much more, but I was grateful for any progress.

I came down from the rock, did some more exercises and returned to Lake Watson. Afterwards, two young guys around my age drove up in their car. I shared stories with them about the bear and my cousin Gregg. They shared beer, weed, and watermelon with me. After enjoying the campfire with them I stumbled back to my tent, cursing myself for not carrying a light in my pocket. I stumbled over trees roots along the way. I was disoriented, and felt like my body was made out of glass as if I could shatter to pieces if I tripped and fell. I looked up at the stars outside, and settled in for another uneasy night of sleep. I don't know if it was the intoxication, or backpacking was having its intended effect. Either way, I slept more soundly than I had the two nights before.